It’s been nearly 200 years since wandering shepherds first experienced the warm embrace of what was then a farmstead at Wharekauhau – te reo for ‘place of knowledge’ – cradled between the Remutaka Ranges and the churning surf of Palliser Bay in the southern reaches of North Island.
A couple of centuries later, animal husbandry and manaakitanga remain an integral part of the Wharekauhau Country Estate, spread across 3,000 acres of untamed Wairarapa wilderness, while its luxury lodge makes headlines both in Aotearoa and abroad. Similarly, the region’s newest hospitality establishment, The Runholder, also nods to its site’s agricultural past through its name (a runholder is someone who manages sheep or cattle) and spectacular architecture which mirrors a contemporary, airy barn.
Just last month, the Edwardian hideaway was named the best resort in Australia and the Pacific at the Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Awards, and one of the top 50 resorts on Earth. It’s the latest in a long line of accolades in recognition of the prestige of a lodge which is part of the Relais & Châteaux luxury hotel group, a favourite among European royals. (Wharekauhau even hosted Princess Katherine, Prince William, and their son Prince George during their visit down under a few years back.)
“What makes Wharekauhau special is our people and place,” says general manager, Richard Rooney. “Wharekauhau has a unique ability to draw you into the landscape – it’s a magic that is often underestimated until it’s experienced. I meet many people that come to relax with a good book and within an hour of being onsite they are deep in conversation with our team.”
Fit for royalty it may well be, but what is nearly as striking as the surrounds is the easy-going hospitality which is much welcome in a setting so grand it could easily overwhelm – indeed, Richard proudly describes the vibe as “jeans, boots, and labradors” (his chief hiking officer is Merlot the Labrador, and watching the farm dogs round up the estate’s sheep is fun, too). As soon as you enter the palatial estate, you’re immediately made to feel part of the Wharekauhau whānau.
And it is that sense of community, of history, and of local pride that adds another dimension to this remote and resplendent alcove of Aotearoa New Zealand.
US billionaire businessman and vintner Bill Foley and his wife Carol purchased the site in 2010, a decade after their first visit, having fallen madly in love with Aotearoa – particularly this corner of it. (The director James Cameron is a sometime neighbour – he owns a nearby farm.) Foley has also purchased the vineyards Te Kairanga, Martinborough Vineyard, Vavasour, Grove Mill, and Mt Difficulty, as well as the Lighthouse Gin distillery, and invested heavily in other Kiwi hospitality ventures.
After the grand welcome in the two-storey grand main lodge (think open fires – where you’re likely see Merlot the Labrador snoozing – open kitchen, antique furnishings, a games room, a library, a massive table for socialising, and nooks for reading), guests are steered to one of 16 nearby 70sqm cottage suites. The handsome cottages afford spectacular coastal views – even from the bathtubs in the marble bathrooms – and feature four-poster beds, open fires, walk-in wardrobes, exposed overhead beams, wool carpets, and hemp curtains, with predominant shades of white, cream, and sand.
For the ultimate upgrade, the three-bedroom 418sqm Foley Villa was where the British heir and his family stayed (and Catherine even apparently helped do the dishes), replete with an underground wine cellar, an infinity pool, and a private chef.
The estate’s executive chef, Norka Mella Munoz, is a magician who manages to reimagine hearty, “nostalgic” classics using ingredients raised, grown, and foraged from the estate. There is still an active beef and lamb station onsite, and seaweed is even gathered from the beach – farm-to-table doesn’t get much more literal than this! Even more impressive is that Norka manages to rustle up new menus of regal feasts daily with the promise “no one goes to bed hungry!” And of course, given the region – and the estate owner – there is wide selection of Foley Wines, alongside other local offerings, US wine, and French champagne; the list stretches to around 700 bottles. Meals are served in a sophisticated setting with white tablecloths or opt for a private meal in front of an open fire.
But first, you should work up that appetite.
There are the usual activities you’d expect at such a destination, including a fitness centre, all-weather courts, a heated pool, an outdoor hot tub, and hiking and biking trails. But it’s those imaginative extras that make Wharekauhau stand out. The Hauora Spa continues the kitchen’s ‘made by hand from the land’ philosophy using the likes of Pacific Ocean salt and mānuka honey in its treatments which are inspired by ancient Māori healing techniques.
Be ferried around the extensive estate in the latest Land Rovers, taking in the glassy lakes and lush pastures en route to sheep shearing demonstrations or to try your hand at clay bird shooting. Or opt for a thrilling ATV tour, tearing up the black beach, muddy fields, and rocky riverbanks atop a quad bike, meeting locals like the cattle and friendly eels who pop up for a pet like puppy dogs! If not quite as cute.
Though, it is good old Mother Nature who perhaps puts on the best show as the breathtaking mountainous coastline disappears beneath the glittered black carpet of the South Wairarapa Dark Sky Reserve.
Off-site trips include scenic helicopter flights and chauffeured vineyard and winery tours, including to The Runholder, the region’s newest establishment – and the new home of Te Kairanga, Martinborough Vineyard, and Lighthouse Gin.
Positioned between expansive strings of vines and Martinborough Terrace – and providing spectacular views of both – The Runholder was designed by Nott Architects of Christchurch, its inspirational barn-like space incorporating a restaurant, tasting room, and private dining room. Downstairs, wine sits in oak barrels, while the gin distillery, the region’s first, makes New Zealand’s oldest craft gin using spring water from the Remutaka Ranges, overseen by Rachel Hall – a leader in her field and Aotearoa’s first female head distiller. It’ll be the best G&T you’ve ever tasted!
The all-star lineup continues with expert viticulturist Dave Shepherd as well as Te Kairanga winemaker John Kavanagh and Martinborough Vineyard winemaker Paul Mason whose rare, new release, and library wines can only be found at The Runholder. Wines such as Te Kairanga’s Pinot Noir 2022, a hand plunged vintage, derived from nine clones and aged for 10 months in French oak, known for its depth, its alluring crimson colour and ripe, fruity palate. The rich, spicy Marie Zelie Reserve Pinot Noir, a “kaleidoscope of aromas” that epitomises what Martinborough Vineyard is all about, is crafted using their oldest vines in honour of Wairarapa’s original winemaker.
Head chef Tim Smith – formerly in charge of the kitchen at Wharekauhau – continuous the celebration of local produce with sharing platters, pizzas, and charcuterie boards complementing wine and gin tastings, and a seasonal menu of tomahawk and wagyu steaks and lamb ribs. Seafood is sourced from the Tora Collective, a sustainable setup established by a family who have fished the local coastline for generations.
And it is that sense of community, of history, and of local pride that adds another dimension to this remote and resplendent alcove of Aotearoa New Zealand. An Eden made by hand from the land.
