Though humans had been wearing clothing for at least 100,000 years prior, it was around 40,000 years ago that we first used needles and awls made from bones and stones to stitch materials, giving credence to the argument that tailoring is one of the world’s oldest professions.
But the art of tailoring as we would recognise it today originated in the Middle Ages then really found its groove during the Renaissance.
“Florentine fashion was the style of bankers and merchants rather than emperors and kings,” writes author and broadcaster, Amber Butchart, for Frieze magazine. “… Clothing supported economies and livelihoods but was also an important tool of the theatre of power.” Elizabeth Currie, author of Fashion and Masculinity in Renaissance Florence, adds that alongside banking, “the wool and silk industries were key to Florence’s extraordinary wealth”. Tailoring was now among the most prestigious of vocations.
By the mid-17th century, Paris was the world’s fashion capital, with King Louis XIV – and his Royal Court of Versailles – leading the way. The trendsetting monarch promoted red-heeled shoes as a status symbol and is credited with popularising wigs. “The so-called Sun King jumpstarted his nation’s textile and jewellery industries,” writes Evan Andrews for History, “championed bold and bright colours in clothing design, and instituted a lavish dress code that made his court the height of 17th century style.”
The following century, across the English Channel (or La Manche to the French), a street named Savile Row opened in London with the purpose of housing British military officers and their wives, and tailors soon moved in. –
Once George Byran “Beau” Brummel, an English dandy and ‘father of modern menswear’, began frequenting the street in the early 1800s, its reputation blossomed, and Savile Row soon became known as the ‘golden mile of tailoring’. It was here that the term ‘bespoke’ was born, too, in reference to cloth reserved, or “spoken for” by a certain customer. While French tailoring was known for its flamboyance, the English approach was one of understatement and practicality.
The profession soon found its way down under.
The 1849 Hand-book for intending emigrants to the southern settlements of New Zealand advised bachelor cabin passengers to bring 48 shirts, 18 waistcoats and 60 pairs of socks as well as an abundance of jackets, trousers and blouses for summer wear. By 1880, there were around 4,000 tailors and seamstresses in Aotearoa, with around one-quarter of women in business involved in the industry. Palmerston North became one of the main tailoring hubs and by the turn of the century, the country was spending almost as much on drapery as it earned from exporting gold.
Established in 1969 by Burt Payne, Payne Tailors stands as one of New Zealand’s oldest tailors. Verve sits down with Payne’s designer and master tailor, Nasir Ali – along with some of Auckland’s other leading suit makers – to learn more…
Nasir Ali
Payne Tailors
Nasir, who has helmed the tailor’s shop since 1997, has been in the business for more than 30 years.
“I started learning as a teenager from family, particularly my mother, who had been sewing clothes from the time I was very young,” he tells Verve. “I went on to enrol at ATI – now AUT – to develop my skills further. Initially, I never thought that I would become a tailor, but I guess being quite right brained and tactile and having a love for clothes and fashion made it actually a good fit.”
What have been the biggest challenges and changes in the past three decades?
“The real challenge in my line of work is succession. There are so few tailors now compared to when I started back 30 years ago. I try to take on as many interns as possible to teach them this knowledge. To succeed, you need to have a certain flair, but also a lot of passion, as it is a long journey.”
Similarly, the tailor considers the making of a suit a journey for both him and the client.
“Bespoke tailoring, to me, is very much about the process,” he continues. “It differs from what’s being offered out there in the name of tailoring. The made-to-measure process involves getting measured in a store, and the garment is made overseas or outsourced. The finished product is what you experience. On the other hand, a bespoke suit involves everything being done in-house. When a client comes to me to have a suit made, within the consultation, the context for the suit is established, and a suitable cloth is chosen.
And as for your own favourite piece?
“Right now, that would be my new dark blue pinstripe three-piece suit in exquisite Escorial wool sourced from New Zealand and milled in England. The trousers are high-waisted, two-pleated with a cuff and side adjusters. The coat is a two-button single breasted with a double vent. I feel so posh when I wear this.”
Can you talk us through the process?
Context is a really important part of the conversation, determining how a cloth would perform. For example, a super luxurious silk wool may not perform well being used as a highdemand tactical business suit. Then it’s on to the measurements.
“Every part of the body is examined to check for irregularities, as these are the issues that will affect the outcomes, particularly fit. People’s shoulders are always uneven. The back can take a very rounded look, especially from bad desk posture. Once a deposit is paid, the cloth is ordered. Then comes the fittings. The first fitting identifies the basic shape and form the garment is to take. It’s then pulled apart, recut, and assembled to a more detailed fit. This allows for fine-tuning. The fittings are the most important in determining the style direction and fit.”
Nasir says that tailoring houses often talk about their house cut, meaning that there is a uniformity in the cuts across all of their suits, with the two main influences being the British and Italian cuts.
“The British cut seems to be more structured and architectural, whereas the Italian cut’s emphasis is more on a natural and relaxed fit,” he says. “I tend to cut the suit depending on what best suits the client’s shape and expectations.
“I do get some challenging shapes to work with. I feel a lot of satisfaction and pride when I make something fit beautifully and it brings joy to the client.”
The tailor believes that the one item every many should have in his wardrobe is a black, navy, or charcoal suit.
“These would be their number one for weddings, funerals, and job interviews. He could dress it up or down depending on how it was accessorised. Another useful item is a good sports coat, which he can pair with chinos or jeans for a dressy but still relaxed look. A couple of waistcoats would also be great; they would work either with the suit or the sports coat or on their own.”
Tim Begg
T. Begg Tailoring
“I was always interested in fashion and menswear, so I began working retail for well-known NZ suiting company,” says Tim Begg, creative director of T. Begg Tailoring. “I then got into the wholesale side of the rag trade, but all roads led me back to what I love most.”
He describes his label as “having a modern aesthetic, with timeless elegance”. “A well-crafted garment should not only look stylish but also enhance the wearer’s natural shape and ensure maximum comfort,” he tells Verve.
Can you give an overview of what clients can expect?
“Our process begins with offering a welcome beverage and providing an introduction to our brand and the overall procedure. During the initial consultation, we discuss the purpose of the suit – such as is it for a wedding – and then discuss design and fabric choices. Once finalised, the garment enters the production phase. After it’s made, we conduct a series of fittings to perfect the fit. The entire process typically takes about two-and-a-half to three months.”
Do you have favourite fabrics to work with?
A fine wool, preferably Italian woven. I love everything about wool. It’s a natural fibre, it keeps you cool and warm, doesn’t tend to crease and has beautiful draping qualities. Italian woven wool tends to be lighter than an English one.”
Favourite piece that you’ve made?
“Hands down, one of my wedding jackets. My cream wool/ cashmere tuxedo jacket will forever be special.”
And in your wardrobe?
“A chocolate-brown, double-breasted suit that I designed for a friend’s wedding in Mexico. It was a bold choice, but it looked fantastic next to my wife and the stunning wedding backdrop.”
Tim, whose style icon is Steve McQueen (“His style is timeless, something that resonates with me”), says that social media is an invaluable source of inspiration and for keeping up to date with the latest trends. He recommends those looking to have a suit made to arrive armed with some inspiration from online: “Having the ability to visualise something before we begin is always a great way to start.”
What current trends do you most like?
“I really love soft-tailored garments. Blazers and sports coats have less structure than traditional tailored jackets, making them more versatile and comfortable for different occasions.” As with so many industries, technological trends must also be studied. “Tools such as e-measuring stand out,” he says, “but they’ll never be as accurate as a simple tape measure.”
The massive shift towards working from home has also drastically altered the tailoring landscape. “The workplace has evolved significantly and many of my clients now only own one suit, with a greater emphasis on business-casual attire,” he adds. “We cater to all tailoring needs, offering everything from casual shirting to cotton chinos, ensuring our clients are well dressed for any occasion.”
Murray Crane
Crane Brothers
2024 is an historic year for the iconic Crane Brothers’, marking their quarter-century anniversary in business. Verve sits down with founder and managing director Murray Crane to discuss his philosophy on fashion, and more.
“I got started in tailoring in the early 1990s when I worked for a company called Monsoon Menswear,” says Murray. “At the time they were tailoring suits, most famously, for a TV series called Gloss. That’s where I really got my first introduction to men’s made-to-measure tailoring. From there I worked for Zambesi Man and was regularly travelling to Paris and working showrooms with the likes of Helmut Lang, Martin Margiela, Paul Smith, and Rei Kawakubo.”
Though his training was predominantly self-taught, throughout his tailoring journey, Murray says that he has made sure to surround himself with “many great people” from whom he has learnt a great deal.
“From the beginning I worked internationally with some of the world’s best designers and makers, and over the last four decades have developed some-
enduring relationships with some of the world’s best manufacturers.”
Ninety-five percent of Crane Brothers’ garments are made of wool, or a blend, and nearly everything they work with is manufactured and woven in Italy, the “benchmark for menswear production”.
“We like working with different blends that suit our temperate climate such as wool mohair,” continues Murray. “The two mills that we enjoy working with the most are probably Loro Piana and Ariston, both of whom produce fantastic ranges.
“We do work with a very vast range of other materials for our breadth of garment offerings like our shirts, footwear – including sneakers – knitwear, jeans, and suede and leather jackets. All also made in Italy.”
Can you describe your process from the first consultation to the final fitting?
“It’s usually a minimum of three to four visits. During the first consultation we will meet with the client to discuss their requirements and look at fabrics that are suitable for them based on personal preference and use – often that’s dependent on the occasion.
“Then we will do a full anatomical and body measure, including posture. During this process we take over 40 separate measurements, then we will produce the garment in preparation of the first fitting with the client. If required, we will have a second fitting and then we call a final fitting at which point the garment is almost at completion.
What are your guiding principles when creating a garment?
“Definitely ‘less is more’ – we follow this philosophy in most designs. We’re all about the three Cs: cut, cloth, and construction. Using good techniques and materials is crucial. Menswear is very easy to get wrong and difficult to get right. That’s what makes it so appealing. At Crane Brothers, we never compromise when it comes to quality.”
Do you have a signature style?
“We like the garments to drape and have their own fit. We like to think that our house shape feels exclusive to Crane Brothers.”
Though tailoring techniques don’t tend to change too much, Murray says that the industry is subject to trends, “usually at a slow pace”.
“There’s definitely a bit of a groundswell at the moment towards everything becoming a little bit looser,” continues Murray. “In the past, our suits have been primarily tailored and slimmer fitting. We are enjoying playing with some new shapes and introducing a little bit more drape into our garments.
“I travel to Italy at least once a year to attend a large trade show called Milano Unica – the largest fabric fair in the world. I take this time to visit all of our suppliers and also try to go to Pitti Uomo, which is a major menswear show in Florence.”
What’s your favourite piece you’ve ever made?
“We recently produced a suit for the last remaining member of the Māori Battalion, Sir Robert Gillies, who is 99 years old and attended this year’s commemorations at Monte Cassino. We made a suit for him when he was knighted. That is one of my personal highlights since founding Crane Brothers.”
How do you see tailoring evolving in the future?
“I think that there’s a real return to anything made by hand and turning artisanal into something that isn’t made in a large factory environment. For a time, there was a move away from men dressing formally which is now starting to turn around. We’re seeing men showing a lot more interest in dressing up again.”
What advice do you have for someone looking to get their first bespoke suit?
“Invest in a good quality cloth that will last. Listen to your tailor’s advice around fit and around fabric. And just try to get something that can be used in many different ways. The temptation is to always do something quite dramatic and quite distinctive, but I think sticking to the classics is the best way to go.”
What are your favourite items in your own wardrobe?
“Empty coat hangers – I seem to have lots of clothes and I’m always looking for more space!”
