We have been making some version of polenta cakes with hollandaise since we opened in ’99—from spring romps with asparagus and salmon to autumnal versions with squash, brown butter, and sage.
This recipe came after a trip to the Green City Farmers’ Market one August morning in the summer of 2021. Carmen peppers, grown by Jerry at Froggy Meadow Farm, are an American version of the corno di toro Italian varietal. Translated as “bull’s horn,” the name describes the pepper’s unusually long, tapered, hooked body, which gives people the mistaken impression that this pepper is going to be hot. It’s actually the sweetest, firmest, fleshiest pepper we know, and when I saw them at Jerry’s stand I immediately asked if we could buy them all. That summer we tried to preserve as many as possible by marinating them in vinegar and oil.
From Janie’s Mill in Illinois, we sourced the intensely aromatic “bloody butcher” cornmeal, flecked with red and white varieties of heirloom corn. Combining this richly flavored, coarse polenta with a standard yellow cornmeal gave us both the flavor and textures we wanted.
Feel free to follow this recipe in whole or in part. The cakes could be served on their own, with a side of crispy bacon for a simple breakfast, with a steak for dinner, or with roasted vegetables for a hearty meat-free entrée.
The recipe for the sott’olio of Carmen peppers yields nearly a full quart. It’s quite the process, so you might want to make a large batch and save the rest in the refrigerator for 7 days—for snacks or for spooning on bread or pasta. Save every ounce of that delicious oil!
Serves
4
Ingredients
Polenta Cakes
- 3 cups (720g) whole milk
- ¾ teaspoon salt
- 1 cup (160g) yellow cornmeal
- ½ cup (70g) red heirloom cornmeal
- (20g) grated Parmesan
- Vegetable oil, for greasing
Sott’olio Peppers
- 450g Carmen peppers
- Scant 1 cup (225g) blend oil
- 2 shallots (100g)
- 2 cloves garlic, sliced
- 1¾ tablespoons white wine vinegar
- ½ teaspoon salt
- Cracked black pepper
- Olive oil, to cover
Roasted Cauliflower
- 4 cups (350g) bite-sized cauliflower florets
- 2 teaspoons blend oil
- Salt
Hollandaise
- 90g butter
- 3 egg yolks
- 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
- ¼ teaspoon lemon juice
- Pinch of cayenne pepper
To Serve
- 4 eggs
- 2 tablespoons hemp seeds
- Dill sprigs
- Shaved Parmesan
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Directions
MAKE THE POLENTA CAKES
In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring the milk, 2 cups (475g) water, and salt to a simmer over medium high heat. Add both cornmeals in a slow, steady stream while whisking continuously to keep lumps from forming. Stir to a porridge consistency. Reduce heat to low and cook, whisking regularly, for 30–40 minutes, until the mixture thickens and pulls away from the edge of the pot as you stir. Depending on the cornmeal, you may need to add water or extend the cooking time. Add the Parmesan, then taste and adjust the seasoning.
Lightly oil a 23 × 23cm baking dish. Spoon the polenta into the dish and spread out evenly. Cover with parchment paper and refrigerate for at least 4 hours. When thoroughly cold, punch out 8 circles with a 7.5cm biscuit (scone) cutter.
MAKE THE SOTT’OLIO PEPPERS
Char the peppers on the stove by placing them directly on the gas flame. Use a pair of tongs to turn the peppers and char all sides. Place in a bowl and cover with glad wrap. Rest for 30 minutes. Peel off the charred skin and remove the seeds. Cut into medium dice.
Meanwhile, heat the blend oil in a small saucepan over low heat. Add the whole shallots. They should be just covered in oil. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat. Cook slowly for 30 minutes until the shallots are super soft. Remove them from the oil with a slotted spoon and place in a medium mixing bowl. Add the sliced garlic to the same warm oil in the pan and cook slowly for 5 minutes, until soft. Transfer to the bowl with the shallots.
Add the peppers to the mixing bowl. Season with white wine vinegar, salt, and a little cracked black pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary; the peppers should be bright and punchy with flavor. Transfer to a lidded container and top with olive oil until covered. Refrigerate until ready to use.
MAKE THE ROASTED CAULIFLOWER
Preheat the oven to 230C°.
In a mixing bowl, toss the cauliflower florets with the blend oil and a little salt until coated. Arrange in an even layer on a baking sheet and roast for 10–15 minutes, or until lightly charred and tender, but not overcooked.
MAKE THE HOLLANDAISE
Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Keep warm.
Fill a medium saucepan with 4 cups (950g) water and bring to a light simmer over medium heat. In a stainless steel mixing bowl that will fit over the pot to create a double boiler, combine the egg yolks, Dijon mustard, lemon juice, and cayenne. Whisk vigorously, then place on top of the pot of simmering water. Allow the eggs to heat for a few minutes, whisking continuously, then slowly add the butter, a little at a time, whisking vigorously between each addition. Continue until all the butter is incorporated and the hollandaise is thick and coats the back of a spoon. Season with salt and set aside in a warm (but not hot) place.
TO SERVE
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the polenta cakes on a parchment lined baking sheet and heat in the oven for 3–5 minutes, until warmed through. Warm 2 tablespoons of the oil from the sott’olio in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the roasted cauliflower and heat until sizzling. Add 1 cup of the sott’olio peppers, reduce the heat to low, and gently warm the vegetables. Cook the eggs in your preferred style; we do sunny-side-up. Place 2 polenta cakes on each of 4 plates. Spoon the cauliflower and pepper on the side. Place an egg on top of each plate and season with salt and pepper. Spoon the warm hollandaise on top. Garnish with hemp seeds, dill sprigs, and shavings of Parmesan.
Recipe extracted from The Lula Café Cookbook, by Jason Hammel, published by Phaidon, RRP $80.
