It was the development of the tramway that spawned the early suburb of Mount Eden in the late 19th century on a patch that was originally scrubland, and later farmland.
Now, under the shadow of its stunning volcano Maungawhau – which once served as a significant pā site – Mount Eden is a thriving urban village just minutes from the city centre. Verve sits down with some locals to learn about what they most love about their neighbourhood, while teasing out some insider tips!
Frances Loo, owner of the local legend that is the Chapter Book and Tea Shop, tells of the days when her father, Kong Chew Loo, opened the family fruit shop in 1948, when the village “was a bit shabby and the tram service was coming to an end”.
“There were no cafes or real estate agents that I can recall,” she says. “Instead, there was a large representation of fresh food shops with a few fruit shops, butcheries, grocers, dairies bakeries, and a fish shop. The old post office is now the De Post Belgian Beer Cafe, and there was even a lending library.”
“There are always people around that you know, plus we have that lovely view of the Maunga.”
Due to her family’s long history with Mount Eden, Frances says she feels a “very strong personal connection to the village”.
“It has always felt like home,” she goes on. “Following the death of my father in 2016, my sister Glennis and I moved above the fruit shop on the corner of Mount Eden and Stokes Roads.”
One of the suburb’s most significant developments, she believes, was the introduction of the Mount Eden Village Centre, a joint project between the community, the Mt Eden Methodist Church, and Auckland Council. I ask the centre’s co-manager, Sallyann Hingston, about its role in the community.
“We provide a space for the various community groups or small businesses to run classes and events like yoga, markets, dance classes, AA and NA, music concerts, and public meetings, as well as various worship groups that utilise our church for services,” she says. “We also have a strong focus on sustainable practices and a zero-waste policy.”
These take the shape of the likes of battery recycling, a pātaka kai (food storehouse) for local homegrown produce, and a book swap.
“We also work with various community groups to help promote sustainable practice such as the Halo Group, a trap library; the Mt Eden Village People, reducing village waste; and a Repair Cafe for repairing small appliances,” adds Sallyann.
Also significant to the community is Eden Garden Society, the local non-profit that incorporates Eden Garden and its cafe.
“We serve as a hub for social interaction and community building, nurturing both plants and people,” says the society’s general manager, Jacqueline Jones. “By hosting events like floral art exhibits and family festivals it offers a platform for people to connect, share ideas, and learn from each other.”
Next year will be the 60th anniversary of when more than 60 volunteers helped transform the previous quarry into the present garden.
“Our charitable memorial garden and cafe provides a lush, serene retreat in the heart of the neighbourhood,” continues Jacqueline. “But Eden Garden Society is more than just a garden and cafe. It is a keystone of the community, and our staff almost become an extended family of those who have loved ones in the garden, which is very special!”
Sallyann says that though the pandemic hit the community hard, with a few good shops and businesses lost, the village is “regaining its buzz”: “The look of the village is the same, and we are managing to hold on to our historic buildings, thankfully.”
“I learned a lot about loyalty and the importance of local community during the lockdowns,” adds Frances. “My customers are very passionate about their teas and consider their favourite brews essential to their wellbeing. I get a strong sense of satisfaction from being able to fulfil their requirements!”
“I love being able to walk to work and spend my mornings in the village,” says Sallyann. “There are always people around that you know, plus we have that lovely view of the Maunga. I remember having my children’s birthday dinners in the village, one time especially when the whole restaurant sang happy birthday to my boy turning six. He’s never forgotten it!”
INSIDER TIPS
Favourite things to do?
Frances: I really enjoy my walks in and around Mt Eden village with its views of Maungawhau. I also feel very fortunate that Mt Eden is the home of the Eden Arts Trust which holds its annual gala Artists in Eden event in the Essex Rd Reserve and, more recently, has introduced an annual Chamber Music Festival and a weekly free Music in Eden programme.
Jacqueline: Wander the paths listening to the sounds of native birds, watching the fantails fly cheekily through the trees while the tuis swoop in and out of the bird baths.
Sallyann: Visit the wonderful range of cafes and restaurants, hang out in Time Out Bookstore, and daily dog walks through the village.
Best places for a drink or to grab a bite?
F: Since my mother, Eileen Loo, passed away earlier this year, my sister and I have been too busy to cook – so we’ve been eating a lot of local takeaways for both lunch and dinner. We’re probably the village’s biggest customers! Our favourite lunch places include Circus Circus, Essential Deli, Paris Bakery, RAD Café, and Sushi Wa Kim Chef. And, for dinner, we enjoy Gina’s, Frasers, Garden Shed, IPress, Monsieur Madame, Pasta & Cuore, Seafood Collective and Xoong. Wow, so many! But they’re all so good!
J: Eden Garden for coffee or a delicious high tea. BYO can also be enjoyed at Eden Garden ‘Bubbles and High Tea’.
S: For coffee, Circus Circus; for lunch, Essential Deli; and for dinner there are loads, like Xoong and Pasta & Cuore. Oh, and The Garden Shed for mulled wine.
Favourite Mount Eden memory?
F: Back in 2011, I encouraged one of my favourite customers, the late Alice Cherrie, an accomplished pianist, to enter a song competition for the Rugby World Cup. She was also encouraged by Eddie Rayner, who lived in her street. Her song was performed on TV by Suzanne Prentice – I still smile at the memory of how some locals made a dream come true for Alice.
J: Driving up the Maunga to attend community concerns and events is very special. We’ve put on numerous festivals and community events, each of them more popular and better attended than the last, which means so much. Also our efforts to reach out to schools and garden groups have also borne fruit, as we’ve hosted a range of educational tours, using our rich, diverse landscape as an engaging outdoor classroom. These achievements not only illustrate the garden’s evolution, but also underscore our commitment to preserving this unique green space, nurturing community ties, and promoting environmental education.
S: That dinner with my six-year-old!
If you were to sum up the suburb in a few words…
F: A charming, cosy, and historic village at the foot of Maungawhau which is easy to visit thanks to excellent public transport services.
J: A vibrant tapestry of cultural richness, historic beauty, and community spirit nestled in the heart of Auckland.
S: A great vibe with a warm and welcoming, well-supported community nestled next to one of the most iconic mountains in New Zealand!
