The pricipality of Monaco, steeped in history and dripping with wealth, is one of the jewels of la Cote d’Azur.
Regardless of whether you stay here in lavish style or day-trip from along the coast, Monaco is a decadent must-do on any keen traveller’s bucket-list. For an occasional visitor like me, it’s never anything short of breathtaking, especially in Spring when the bright-blue Mediterranean is invitingly warm, the latest fashions are on constant parade, and you can freely explore in a sportscar before peak tourist season limits you to second gear.
Covering two square kilometres, Monaco is so small that you can’t help but rub shoulders with the celebrities residing on every street. Grand Prix week in the second half of May is, of course, Monaco at its glitzy best. In fact, if you fancy a stroll of precisely 3.34km, the famous racetrack through Monte-Carlo includes some of the best points of interest.
Port Hercule is the sparkling centrepiece around which much of the Formula One action unfolds and the starting grid is marked out in the shade of trees lining Boulevard Albert 1er. Beneath the church at Sainte-Devote, the cars turn right and accelerate up Avenue d’Ostende towards Monte-Carlo Casino.
Speaking from experience, it’s best to avoid the casino’s gold ceilings and chandeliers and splash your cash elsewhere. For starters, there are countless world-class eateries in this patch of paradise. If you appreciate the best Italian cuisine, a couple of fine-dining options are Pulcinella, in Portier, and Le Pinocchio at Le Rocher. Finish your meal with a drop of L’Orangerie, the liqueur of Monaco, and kick on among locals with a nightcap at Buddha Bar. This place firmly deserves its reputation as a superior drinking and people-watching spot.
If you’re shopping for haute couture or high-end gifts, you can’t go wrong at the myriad boutiques of Monte-Carlo or Le Metropole shopping centre, opposite Casino Gardens. Venture off the beaten track and you’ll also discover fantastic specialty retailers. Secondhand Hermes offers a great range of (slightly) more affordable designer handbags on Boulevard des Moulins. Truffle Bistrot at Condamine Market is worth a look before ordering coffee and a sweet treat at Chocolaterie de Monaco. If your pet expects a treat, For Pets Only in Palais Saint James has amazing options. And for the petrolhead in your life, La Boutique at Automobile Club de Monaco hits the spot with classy souvenirs.
For a reprieve from the afternoon heat, it’s nice to spend a quiet hour in one of Monaco’s many manicured gardens. The Japanese Garden is a beautiful retreat after some beach activity at Larvotto, and Casino Gardens in the heart of Monte-Carlo is a relaxing spot to consider whether you should chance your arm on the roulette wheel at Café de Paris next-door. The Jardin Exotique is a tourist attraction in its own right and there are sprawling hilltop gardens near the Prince’s Palace, home to the Grimaldi family since 1297. No invitation is required to visit the Palace but note that changing of the guard takes place each day at 11.55am sharp…
If you don’t fancy battling Ferrari owners for a patch of tarmac on the streets of Monaco, the modern railway station allows swift connections to key centres along the French coast, namely Nice, Cannes and St. Tropez, as well as smaller character towns, like Juan-les-Pins, another personal favourite. And while Monaco is very walkable for most people, Monaco Tours operates touristic trains every 30 minutes and for a double-decker bus experience, Le Grand Tour Monaco is an excellent way to discover the best little principality on the planet.
Words — Andrew Kerr
