It isn’t the dated fitout that continues to draw the crowds, Tanto swims against the tide with precision and attention to detail that makes for some interesting Asian cuisine.
A nondescript shopping strip in Epsom is not the obvious place to seek boundary-pushing Japanese food, but owner Mitsukuni Shibuya’s vision explains Tanto’s hidden treasure status and why he has a loyal following that money can’t buy. Diners can choose to eat a la carte or from a set menu from a kitchen that finds plenty of room to flex its muscles with passion and intensity.
Apart from mains there’s an array of entrée-sized Japanese standards from a menu that changes regularly. One the night, we sampled pan fried pork and vegetable dumplings ($13.50); feather-like tempura prawn twisters with mayo sauce ($12); fresh tuna served with tartare sauce ($18); marinated fried chicken thigh ($20); and seared salmon ($24). All are melt-in-your-mouth culinary delights.
For something a bit more substantial, there are mains of tempura, pan-fried, and crumbed dishes, tofu and seaweed salads, and some of the finest sashimi and sushi ($21-$54). Although Japanese cuisine can be a little thin on the ground, the dishes were delightfully and theatrically presented. Desserts please rather than wow – pick of the sweets were chocolate brownies or baked apple ($17).
The wine list moves through a good selection of local and imported vintages by the bottle and glass, together with a range of Japanese and European beers to mix and match the food. Otherwise, you can sip your way through a range of sake.
And the verdict? With Auckland littered with Asian eateries, Tanto remains one of the most popular and sought after Japanese restaurants in the city focusing on what’s served on the plate. For gourmands, their sushi night is a monthly event not to be missed. And what a difference good floor staff make with service that is all smiles, calm and orderly.
Menu: 7; cuisine: 8; wine list: 7; service: 8; decor: 7; value for money: 8.
250 Manukau Road, Epsom. Phone 09 522 2300.
Open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday; licensed.
tanto.co.nz
