A small shopping strip in the heart of Morningside doesn’t usually dish up notable meals, but there are exceptions to all rules. Exceptions such as Sake Bar Icco.
In a former retail shop in this community hub, 20 tables are jammed so close together you can’t avoid the neighbourhood gossip! Alternatively, you can sit at the bar counter and follow your meal being prepared from the open kitchen. First impressions are more like a café than a restaurant, but nevertheless, Sake Bar Icco has a loyal following that continues to draw in the crowds and will always remain popular as long as it sticks to what it does well. Weekend tables are booked for weeks well in advance.
Although the menu is plain and small, coupled with its daily specials it covers a lot of territory. The ingredients are fresh and the standard high, dispelling any notion that one Japanese restaurant is much the same as the next. The cuisine is light and delicate, their tempura is served hot and lightly crisped. Entrees include homemade pickles ($13); salmon agria potato ($13); sashimi ($19-52); white fish tempura ($25); green salad ($13); and spring rolls ($19) –all faithful renditions. For something more substantial there is our favourite teriyaki chicken ($34); tempura udon ($28); chicken katsu ($30); market fish ($37); salmon avocado ($22); miso king salmon ($37); prawn tempura avo ($25); or the chef’s selection ($36). Each are perfect when washed down with sake, plum wine, or Japanese beer.
There’s no Japanese simplicity with the desserts but rather the more traditional dishes like crème brulee, panna cotta, and toffee pie ($11-15)
And the verdict? Technical precision and attention to detail make this popular Japanese eatery one of Auckland’s most interesting, with delicious food hitting the tables. There is respect for the individuality of flavours and a focus that is so visually appealing it’s a shame to dismantle what’s put on the plate in front of you. Artful presentation and generous portions all add to a dining experience that won’t ravage the budget.
Menu: 8; cuisine: 8; service: 7.5; decor: 7; value for money: 8.
601 New North Road, Morningside; 09 849 7268; dinner
Tues-Sat; sakebaricco.co.nz
