Amongst an oasis of eateries in Commercial Bay, Origine plays it straight with a collection of timeless dishes that give a new meaning to French cuisine.
Celebrity chef Ben Bayly seems determined to let his cooking shine, giving provincial dishes a contemporary slant – resulting in a seriously good French restaurant with a menu that reads like Larousse Gastronomique.
For starters the kitchens repertoire includes freshly shucked oysters ($7 each); duck and black truffle parfait ($10 each); French onion soup, oxtail toastie and gratinated cheese ($26); shaved cold salmon, citrus, cr.me fraiche and chives ($26); venison tartare, tarragon mayo; and a crisp agria wafer ($28). For mains there’s mushroom risotto teamed with truffle espuma ($38); braised wagyu beef cheek bourguinon, leeks and potato puree ($40); woodfired Chatham Island blue cod with scampi bisque and pickled turnip ($49); and, for devoted carnivore, a 500g wood fire-roasted rib of beef for two, served with potato puree, mustard, red wine jus and salad ($95). Sides include fries ($12); garden salad ($12); and wood fired purple carrots ($14).
Carefully designed desserts include berry souffle with crème fraiche sorbet ($22); Valrhona dark chocolate tart with compote of caramelised pears ($21); apple tarte tatin profiterole with chocolate ganache calvados and caramel sauce ($20); and vanilla cr.me caramel with poached rhubarb and sorbet ($22). The wine list is studded with curiosities and an array of rare treats by the glass and bottle.
And the verdict? Although the menu does not have a solid range of French dishes, there are no outrageous combinations, just fresh seasonal produce intelligently plated. Knowledgeable floor staff and a casual atmosphere complete the experience.
Menu: 8.5; cuisine: 9; wine list: 9; service: 8; decor: 8;
value for money: 8.5.
Level 2/172 Quay Street, Phone 027 674 4463.
