Once a commercial car park now transported into a cosy dining room with half its space opening onto a quiet al fresco streetscape in Parnell, Barulho is a survivor in a city that hasn’t been kind to Spanish restaurants.
Tapas are the perfect food for a crowd, so if you’re in a gathering take a trip around the top-notch menu that includes a selection that yields unexpected gems such as olives marinated with fennel and orange ($12); wood fired sourdough, grissini, goats cheese, honeycomb and truffle ($18); buttermilk fried chicken, chipotle mayo and lime ($28); fish ceviche, avocado crema, charred pineapple, with blue corn chips ($28); and polenta crumbed oyster, mushroom milanesa, crème fraiche and lemon ($18).
The kitchen’s talent shines through with sharing mains like stuffed pork and beef meatballs and tomato sugo ($36); paprika grilled octopus, chorizo, fennel and almonds ($38); charcoal grilled beef with chimichurri, thyme roasted mushroom and crispy potatoes ($48); and traditional paella made with clams, prawns, fish, saffron rice, roast peppers, broad beans ($46).
Pleasing sides comprise crispy potatoes, aioli ($16); wood roasted carrots, smoked labne ($18); brussel sprouts, lardons, currants, roast grapes ($18); and baby cos radicchio, fennel, apple and anchovy dressing ($18).
As for as desserts ($18) – custard tart and rhubarb; date pudding; ice cream and whiskey caramel; or dark chocolate mousse, pistachio, raspberry, and mandarin – they may all sound a bit clichéd, but they’re just done so well here. Whatever you chose, everything is better with a glass of something from the appropriately Spanish-heavy wine list.
And the verdict? There are some great dishes here. Fine produce and fresh flavours can border on mundane unless the cooking is cutting edge, so it’s easy to see why Barulho is such a great dining destination.
RATING
Menu: 8 | Cuisine: 8 | Wine list: 8
Service: 8 | Décor: 7.5 | Value for Money: 8
2-16 Watt Street, Parnell. Phone 379 0277.
Dinner: Tuesday to Saturday; licensed.
barulhoparnell.com
