Located alongside some of the city’s best harbourside real estate La Marée gives a lesson in how to be big and bold, with the most adventurous of food hitting the tables
First impressions count. The vibrant floor-to-ceiling illuminated lightbox murals, softened by wooden floors, russet tones, and refined, well-spaced intimate table settings blend effortlessly with the airy and welcoming surroundings. And behind these doors is a dining experience that raises the bar with a broadly appealing a la carte menu ramped up with accomplished serves of carefully crafted dishes that shine.
For starters, freshly shucked oysters ($6 each), raw fish plate ($28), spatchcock ($19), king salmon ($27), smoked aubergine ($26), and Caesar salad ($18). For mains local provenance gets 5-star billings. Cauliflower steak ($31) served with turmeric cauliflower puree, raisins, and hazel nuts; braised venison shin ($34) served with strozzapreti and parmesan; king salmon
($40) with brussel sprouts, kohlrabi and sorrel sauce; five spiced duck leg confit ($38) served with pan-fried potato, cavalo nero and tomato mousseline; and market fish ($38) crayfish bisque, braised leeks and salmon caviar
But the real star is their selection of steaks that form the centrepiece of the grill carte on any given day. Simplicity works best here: 180g beef fillet ($42), 300g sirloin ($42), 250g grain-fed sirloin ($38), 200g Queensland Angus sirloin ($58), or 300g Queensland wagyu rump marble ($62). Accompaniments include bearnaise, horseradish, persillade, chef steak butter, free-range egg. Pared-back plating means you’ll want a predicable side ($12-14). All merit recommendation.
Traditionalists will find desserts tried-and-trusted. Submerge yourself with after delights that include staples like roasted hazelnut sponge ($19); mandarin, sorbet vanilla and chocolate ($19); caramelised pear with chestnut ice cream ($19);
a selection of ice creams and sorbets ($14); and a cheese board ($42).
And you can drink deeply from the concise wine list. It’s as interesting as the cuisine, studded with local and imported curiosities crafted around plenty of drops by the glass.
And the verdict? La Marée deserves a salute for consistency. But fresh flavours and precise cooking keeps them vibrantly in the present. Attentive knowledgeable and free-thinking service that rarely misses a beat makes this a great dining destination.
Menu 9, cuisine 9, wine list 8, service 9, décor 8, value for money 9.
Licensed, lunch and dinner, 7 days. 21 Viaduct Harbour Ave; 09 354 7478; sofitel.com/Auckland-viaduct.
