More than any other pinnacle of high fashion, a handbag serves as a portal to the past, encapsulating the essence of an era like no other fashion creation. Not only are handbags vessels for our belongings, but these iconic accessories are also symbols of style, status, and self-expression. From the practicality-driven ‘30s to the opulent excess of the ‘80s, groundbreaking designs have rightfully earned their place in handbag history over the decades.
1930s
In the 1930s, the Great Depression’s grip ushered in an era of conservative and practical fashion, leaving its imprint on handbag designs. Louis Vuitton, famed for its trunks and travel bags, took a bold step into handbags in 1930, birthing the Louis Vuitton Speedy. Crafted from waxed canvas embellished with the iconic monogram, the Speedy was a marriage of practicality and luxury. The Louis Vuitton Alma emerged in 1934, drawing inspiration from Paris’s Alma Bridge, becoming a timeless symbol of elegance and prestige.
1940s
World War II cast a practical spell on 1940s fashion, challenging designers to navigate material scarcity with ingenuity. Gucci, post-war in 1947, epitomised this spirit with the Gucci Bamboo Top Handle handbag. Its bamboo handle, an unconventional design born of necessity, became an emblem of creativity, solidifying Gucci’s iconic status.
1950s
The post-war economic boom of the 1950s sparked a revolution in fashion, with cinched waists and fuller skirts dominating the scene. Women now needed smaller, structured handbags to complement their sophisticated looks. Enter Coco Chanel’s ground-breaking quilted-leather Chanel 2.55 in 1955, which departed from hand-carried norms with its innovative chain shoulder strap. Simultaneously, the Hermes Kelly attained must-have status when Grace Kelly used it to shield her pregnancy from paparazzi, solidifying its name and timeless allure.
1960s
The 1960s liberated women’s fashion, steering younger generations away from traditional handbags. The iconic hobo-style Gucci Jackie 1961 handbag, inspired by Jackie Kennedy, epitomized the spirit of the ‘60s, while in 1965, the Louis Vuitton Speedy 25, inspired by Audrey Hepburn, was a chic an nimble adaptation of the original, offering a perfect blend of style and practicality.
1970s
The 1970s embraced diverse fashion, featuring bohemian, casual, and practical handbag styles. Shoulder bags with wider, longer straps became the trend, reflecting the carefree spirit of the time. Studio 54’s opening in 1977 marked a shift toward decadence, exemplified by the Whiting and Davis Mesh bag. From bohemian vibes to flashy club-goer styles, the ‘70s showcased a spectrum of handbag diversity.
1980s
The 1980s epitomized excess, with handbags emerging as paramount accessories for self-expression. The grand dame of ‘It Bags,’ the Hermès Birkin, made its debut in 1984, a result of a chance encounter between Jane Birkin and Hermès executive Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight. Collaborating on the back of a paper sick-bag provided by the airline, they designed the ultimate carryall, unknowingly making fashion history. The Birkin bag quickly became a symbol of ultra-luxury, with A-listers showcasing its coveted status. The Chanel Double Flap, conceived by Karl Lagerfeld, also rose to prominence with its iconic interlocking CC logo. Simultaneously, Miuccia Prada revolutionized luxury with the introduction of nylon bags, notably the Prada Vela Backpack in 1984, challenging the norms of ultra-luxury by replacing traditional leather with nylon, thus making Tessuto nylon synonymous with Prada.
1990s
The 1990s held many definitive bag moments, including the Fendi Baguette – resulting from the collaborative genius of Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi. This petite pochette, meant to be slipped under the arm, introduced a new silhouette adorned with a bold FF clasp. The Baguette’s iconic status was solidified when Carrie Bradshaw famously sported a purple sequin version in Sex and the City. In 1999, John Galliano introduced the Dior Saddle Bag. Featuring a unique shape and diverse iterations, it quickly established itself as a cult creation of the late ‘90s. Named in honour of Princess Diana, who carried it on a trip to Paris, the Dior Lady Dior boxy quilted top-handle tote, featuring a dangling logo charm, is also iconic of this era.
2000s
As the new millennium dawned, the allure of owning an ‘It-Bag’ became a cultural phenomenon, with anticipated launches commanding extensive wait lists. Balenciaga’s City Bag disrupted the fashion scene in 2001, renowned for its squishy, studded, and shapeless design, earning the nickname “motorcycle bag” and gaining rapid approval from the trendsetting elite, including Kate Moss. In 2005, the Chloe Paddington handbag captured enthusiasts’ attention with its distinctive padlock, and despite weighing over 1kg empty, all 8,000 units sold before hitting shelves. The Alexander Wang Rocco, featuring an incredibly heavy stud-embellished base, also emerged as a coveted accessory, further fuelling the era’s fascination with bold statement handbags.
2010s
In the 2010s, the enduring It-Bag trend persisted. Phoebe Philo’s Celine Luggage Tote was minimalist yet personality-rich, swiftly earning a coveted spot on waiting lists amongst fashion enthusiasts. The Chloe Marcie, a creation by Hannah MacGibbon, added an equestrian touch with its curved, saddle-like front flap. In 2011, the Chanel Boy paid homage to Coco Chanel’s great love, Boy Capel, sustaining high demand. Debuting in the pre-fall 2019 collection, Daniel Lee’s Bottega Veneta The Cassette, with its distinct rectangular shape and oversized weave, achieved wild success. The remixes of the bag, including the squishier version, the Bottega Veneta Padded Cassette, were also highly coveted.
2020s
Despite retail challenges in 2020 during the pandemic, handbags have showcased resilience by retaining their value. Kicking off the decade, the ‘no logo’ trend and the reign of oversized bags dominated the scene, finding a balance between practicality and style. Bottega Veneta has continued to rise in popularity with their highly coveted Bottega Veneta Pouch, Bottega Veneta Jodie Bag, and Bottega Veneta Hop Bag. The Saint Laurent iCare Tote has become the oversized It-Bag, while the maxi Fendi Origami Bag and Alaïa Fishnet Tote (following the success of their mesh ballet flats) are hot on its heels. Showcasing diversity in style and shape, the Loewe Puzzle, Balenciaga Monaco Bag, and Miu Miu Wanderer Matelassé Hobo have also emerged as must-have accessories thus far.
Words — Milly Nolan
