“With the population explosion occurring in the Auckland region, Helensville is likely to become a popular location for people to live in the coming years thanks to its picturesque charm and natural environment offering countryside living on the outskirts of the big city,” says Jenny Murray of the North West Business Association. “It’s a charming little rural town with beautiful historic buildings that reflect its quaint character, and offers history and heritage thanks to railway museums.”
What many don’t realise, she adds, is that this rustic location, 40km northwest of Auckland, was once named by North and South magazine as one of New Zealand’s top 10 towns.
The endearing Ginger Café at Helensville’s historic railway station building sure is a pleasant environment to whittle away a couple of lazy morning — or afternoon — hours, sipping coffee on the sunny deck, watching the world go by and perhaps taking a browse in the lovely River Cottage Antiques. The 1880 station (the town’s second rail building), was originally positioned further west where it served as the district’s main departure and arrival points for the soldiers of the first world war, moving to its current location in 1927. Occasionally there’s the slow, low rumble of a freight train (alas passenger locomotives are consigned to yesteryear), while in front, 19th century steam train D170, loaned from MOTAT, reminds visitors of its glorious past.
The region around Helensville is believed to have been occupied for almost a thousand years, Maori first recognising the potential of this area, near the mouth of the Kaipara River, as a vital waterway for war parties and trade. Pas were built. The surrounding hills and kauri forest made for excellent strategic defence, food sources and materials supply. The hot springs at Parakai, fresh water lakes, and easy access to the harbour further added to the allure, and the area was christened Te Awaroa, or ‘The Valley of the Long River’.
Insider Tip:
- “The best views are found on the Helensville Riverside Walkway,” says Jenny.
- “The walkway feature’s tracks boardwalks and bridges, with a lookout over the Kaipara River where there has been extensive planting of native trees and shrubs.”
- A handful of access points to the track include: southern entry in Mill Road (opposite Mitre 10); central entry point Creek Lane (beside Unichem, Commercial Road); and the northern entry between the historic Post Office and the old Bank of New Zealand buildings on Commercial Road.
Jo Austin, sales and marketing manager at Skydive Auckland, has the privilege of a whole different perspective. “Many people don’t realise that Kaipara Harbour is the largest harbour in the southern hemisphere,” she says. “From the air it is absolutely stunning because it is where the country is at its narrowest. You can see the white sand beaches of the east coast beaches and the black sand beaches of the west.”
Before the rise of rail, for a quarter of a century Kaipara Harbour served as the nation’s mightiest export port, sending the likes of flax, gum and timber to the far-flung reaches of the world. It also served as a local passenger route, but farewelled its final steamer in 1942, having lost out to the train. The port officially closed five years later.
In the early 1860s, the McLeod family became among the first Europeans to lay roots in the region, brothers John and Isaac establishing a thriving timer mill near the original railway station. In 1862, John built a kauri cottage for his wife that became known as ‘Helen’s Villa’, and so the name stuck. A popular saying around Helensville at that time was that “kauri is king”, and in 1911, the Kaipara Dairy Company was born, to become the town’s largest employer. By the late 1980s it had closed its doors, similarly the timber industry dwindled and thanks mainly to the hot springs at Parakai, tourism became, and remains, the region’s biggest draw.
The can-do pioneering community spirt certainly still prevails around Helensville, exemplified by the likes of the bustling Kaukapakapa Village Market where locals and visitors mix among stalls serenaded by live musicians. “There’s a real rural community feel at the centre of all these beautiful locations,” says Jo. “And it helps that so many of the business like the farms, the springs, the stores and the airfield are family-owned.”
“Helensville is a community of giving people who have the best interests of everyone at heart and who are selfless in helping others in need,” adds Jenny. “It is the epitome of a tight-knit small New Zealand community.”
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Words: Jamie Christian Desplaces