If gorgeous movie stars Helen Mirren, Jamie Lee Curtis and even Gywneth Paltrow can embrace their natural grey locks, can you rock the look too? Our top stylists say anyone can pull it off – if you know how.
For years, says Grant Bettjeman of Bettjemans, many women delayed going grey as they thought it made them look older: “And naturally grey hair can certainly be ageing. But something changed during lockdown.”
When those silver roots started to appear, women had little choice but to go public with their natural grey. “Seven weeks without a colour appointment made people think about whether they should try it permanently. That definitely started a trend.”
Even before lockdown though, globally, blue greys and violet greys had been trending among sartorially out-there younger women, says Brad Lepper of French Revolver.
There is something ethereal about a young face topped with a mane of silver or grey hair. And an older woman can look chic with a sharp haircut, bold makeup and meticulous grooming. Done right, it’s a look that turns heads.
So, what is grey hair anyway?
When hair turns grey, explains Grant, there is no melanin or colour pigment in the hair follicle. “The strand of hair is actually clear. Because it’s an oval shape, it reflects the light which makes it look white and the scalp reflects through it.”
Grey strands are usually drier than pigmented hairs, so they tend to frizz and can look limp and lifeless if you’re not vigilant about upkeep. Ageing scalps can also be dry as we age because they don’t produce as much oil.
The strand of hair is actually clear. Because it’s an oval shape, it reflects the light which makes it look white and the scalp reflects through it.”
Upkeep
Good moisturising treatments and scalp conditioners can return the health to your shining glory, calming and moisturising grey hair.
Treatments are a big thing, says Brad. “You have to make sure hair is at its optimum level of health. When grey hair is not in good condition the colour will go more gold. Use high quality shampoos and conditioners with a violet or silver base.”
Which grey?
There are some amazing grey tones from steely gun metal, violet blues, ash greys to champagnes and almost blonde.
Danny Pato from D&M Hair Design who was international hairstylist of the year for 2021 says to get your hair colourist to check the natural pigmentation of your skin.
“It’s not a hard and fast rule, but generally warm hair tones work best if your skin colouring is cooler, and likewise cooler hair is the perfect complement to warmer skin.
“As we age, our skin can, among other things, lose its warmth and brightness. If this is you, embracing the grey could result in a washed-out appearance. If your skin tone is warm and radiant, grey hair is much more likely to complement and balance.”
To work out whether you have a cool or warm skin tone, check the pigment in your eyes. Gold or amber flecks in your eyes indicate a warm skin tone. If you have lots of blues, greens or greys, you have a cool skin tone. The key to finding a grey that flatters you is to pick one that has the opposite undertones to your skin.
Stay Sharp
Once your hair starts to grey, you shouldn’t just leave it to happen naturally unless you want to release your inner Coromandel surfie chick vibe.
Grant: “You have to work hard on your grooming with a sharp, modern haircut. A chic, shoulder length bob can look stunning, however shorter product-driven shapes with a choppy texture and a fun, youthful feel work best. Exaggerated shapes with short undercuts and longer fringes ensure no matter how the hair is styled, the shape remains strong.
“Modern fashionable clothes coupled with immaculate makeup and stunning accessories are an important part of the groomed woman who wants to ‘rock out’ their grey hair.” It’s about your total look and overall style, agrees Brad: “Something funky with front layers around the face is good with a modern twist. The short pixie never goes away and the classic bob never dates. On a grey palette, it’s very striking.
“In winter you might want a bit of colour so you’re not so pale. Add low lights to inject more colour for a darker dimension.” Long grey hair can still look great. Brad suggests adding layers to texture and give it dimension: “If it’s all one length it can feel a bit drab.”
“It’s a hard look to get right,” says Grant. “You have to have wonderful makeup and amazing clothes to get away with it. You have to be very groomed. Most with long grey hair end up wearing it up all the time because it can look ridiculous, though that can look cool too.”
Many of Brad’s clients use products designed for blondes but they’re amazing for greys, like Wella’s Indigo shampoo and conditioning range which gives more shine and depth. There’s also Cool Blonde which brightens the colour and Kerastase brings out a product specifically to keep grey hair supple.
Treatment bases can alter the colour without committing completely to grey and after four to five shampoos, it rinses out. You can dial up or down, depending on what you’re using.
The Transition
Your stylist can help you transition to grey so that it looks natural.
Brad explains that there’s a way to lighten the hair and start to blend out the natural greys with foils.
“You can also remove the existing colour in your hair and blend in the grey. Depending on the build-up of colour it can take a few goes. Anything you lighten has a gold undertone.”
If the hair is in good condition and no box dye has been used, says Ruby McDowell, senior stylist at Commune, you may be able to lighten and soften the transition. “We recommend using Khair Prep with any lightening services. Hydration is often key with grey hair to provide suppleness.”
To speed the transition, she often recommends going shorter.
There is also a process called Foxing, which Bettjemans have perfected. “You can walk into the salon with tinted hair and leave with a funky creamy grey blonde look, like Judi Dench, and never have to colour your hair again.
“We can do a radical change in one visit or we can soften it gradually with foils. Foxing only works with short hair.”
“We recommend using Khair Prep with any lightening services. Hydration is often key with grey hair to provide suppleness.” – Ruby McDowell, senior stylist at Commune
Advice
There’s an age stigma attached to grey that you can’t deny, says Grant. “Before you go grey, speak to a professional about options that might work for you. It might be a two, three, four or five year process. It can be quite a shock for people to see you a colour one day and grey the next.”
And Brad: “Try to understand your percentage of grey and what you want to grow out. Little by little is better than all at once. Do a few greys that frame your face. Add grey around the hair line but keep your existing colour.”
Words ― Vicki Holder
