WORDS — Heather Steedman
Every day, thousands of people travel along Tamaki Drive. Many are drawn to the variety of cafes and restaurants, to sit and enjoy the harbour views dominated by Rangitoto Island.
Others use the route for recreation, sharing the pathway for walkers and cyclists or to swim in the harbour waters.
The area has always been highly valued by its occupants, both Māori and European, and yet many people are not aware of the area’s history as they pass points of historical interest. I set out to discover the history behind the area and the landmarks that I had walked past all my life.
As I began the three-kilometre walk from Mission Bay to St Heliers, I stopped to watch the water gushing from the mouths of the three bronze sea monsters in the Trevor Moss Davis fountain. Often children paddle in its waters but today its occupants were seagulls. This turquoise-coloured tiled pool is made of Sicilian marble and was donated to the city by Eliot and Stella Davis in 1950 as a memorial to their son who had died of a heart attack at the age of 45 years in 1947. Trevor Moss Davis was the director of the liquor firm Hancock and Company and a relative of former Auckland mayor Sir Ernest Davis. The architect George Tole designed the fountain and Richard Goss, whose other works include the athlete at the Auckland Domain, sculptured it.
The waters of the Waitematā were shimmering in the sunlight, living up to their translation of ‘sparkling waters’.
The fountain is located on land once used as a flying school for pilots in World War I. The school was established and run by Vivian and Leo Walsh, brothers who had developed a passion for aviation upon learning of the Wright Brother’s flights in America in 1903. The Walshes designed, built and flew seaplanes, with Vivian becoming the first person to receive a pilot’s licenced certificate. The sundial that I had looked at so many times, was placed there to commemorate their aviation and wartime contribution, along with a plaque.
Mission Bay is now a popular dining area, with many eateries for all tastes. Art deco buildings add to the style and the clock tower is an iconic symbol.
While the stone Mission House in Selwyn Reserve now serves as a restaurant, it was originally built for Archbishop Selwyn in the 1850s from scoria rock quarried from Rangitoto Island. Its original purpose was to provide boys with a Catholic education but over the years it has continued to provide a variety of education including being used as a naval training school. It became a heritage building in 1974.
I continued, literally around the bend, to Kohimarama, often abbreviated to Kohi. It has a quieter but increasingly popular beach lined with pōhutukawa trees. An English tourist had stopped to take photos of the view. “I’m going back to England next week,” he said. “Just had to take some photos of all this to show them.” He gestured at the harbour: “Pretty good.” Pretty good indeed, I agreed.
At the eastern end sits Kohimarama Yacht Club, established in 1939 for young sailors. At Gower’s Point the rocks extend out into the harbour making it a popular spot for fishing. The solo fisherman today was casting his line. “Caught anything yet?” I asked. “No, not today,” he replied. Still, not a bad place to not be catching any fish. The waters of the Waitematā were shimmering in the sunlight, living up to their translation of ‘sparkling waters’.
Kohimarama has had different names over the years. Initially Waipārera, meaning duck water, for the grey duck called pārera who would breed there. From 1892 to 1919 it was often referred to as Jockey Bay, as the area was a training ground for racehorses. All this was before the completion of Tamaki Drive in 1932.
Prior to the roading in place, visitors had to arrive by boats and walk around the rocks. A wharf was built in 1912 on Pipimea Head, between Mission Bay and Kohimarama, and the first business was a tearoom to cater for these visitors.
On to St Heliers, the largest suburb with the shops, eateries and amenities creating the feeling of a seaside village. Major Walmsley named the area as it reminded him of the Bay of St Heliers on the Channel Island of Jersey. He managed Glen Orchard, Auckland’s first stud farm and a further connection to horses in the area.
Like the other beaches, St Heliers became a popular place for swimming and recreation, creating an increased need for toilets and changing facilities. Fundraising during a beach carnival in 1923 meant building of the bathing sheds could be started and they still stand today. The ladies’ sheds were completed in 1925, however, the men’s sheds only had walls until they were completed in 1928.
Other landmarks include two drinking fountains; one in stone in memory of Guyon Brookfield, a scout leader killed in World War I, and one in marble celebrating the first piped water supply to the area.
Two massive Moreton Bay fig trees, planted in 1923, are an interesting natural feature.
What started as a holiday region for the early settlers has become a thriving location, and the area continues to be the perfect spot to enjoy nature, water sports, or to indulge in eating fish and chips on the beach, as several people were doing. Like any beach, the seagulls are always quick to congregate, hoping for an easy meal before returning out to those sparkling waters as they have for centuries.
I headed back to Mission Bay to indulge in a favourite pastime: getting a takeaway pizza from my favourite Italian restaurant to eat on the beach. It seems a long way from the tea and scones those early visitors would have eaten at that tearoom, but the view remains the same.
By chance a seaplane flew out over the waters and I thought the Walsh brothers would be happy to think their passion was still being lived by others today.
