How fitting that something as civilised as the dinner party is as old as, well, civilisation itself.
From Jesus Christ and the Last Supper to Cleopatra and her legendary banquet with Mark Anthony, and Queen Elizabeth I’s 17-day banquet organised by her possible lover, some of history’s most iconic figures will forever be linked with some historic feasts. But what are some essential ingredients for a successful – and possibly more doable – one? Verve asked a couple of experts for their takes on some dinner party dos – and don’ts.
Toby Stuart
Cloudy Bay vineyards executive chef Toby Stuart says it’s essential that dinner party guests know how to laugh lots, eat lots and hold their liquor to hold conversations “about a variety of topics without it escalating into shouting matches, or violence!”
Real guests aside, who’d make the cut on your dream guestlist?
First up, Dave Chapelle, he’s simply the GOAT and needs no explanation. Fran Lebowitz – she’s just a legend in her own right, and Stephen Fry from whom I’m sure we’d all learn something. I’d also invite Jools Holland to hear loads of interesting stuff about the music industry and perhaps a few tunes later on? And Emma Thompson, she’s interesting, funny and on point.
What would you cook?
It’s important to consider what sort of evening you want to have. Organising a ‘make your own toppings’ and having a go at making your own pizzas in a wood fired oven is loads of fun and removes the focus from achieving gastronomic heights – but it wouldn’t fit some styles of dinner parties.
You also don’t want to be spending the whole evening in the kitchen, cooking – your guests are there to partly see and speak with you after all! Plan ahead, and try to do the maximum amount of prep before everyone arrives so you can at least share the canapes and bubbles before retreating to the kitchen. I’d also suggest not attempting any recipes for the first time. Choose something you’re confident in and know how to execute, you’ll enjoy the evening way more, with less pressure.
Menus are so personal, but this is what I’d do. It’s not for the faint hearted and forget about getting your five a day. This meal, if done properly, is so unforgettable it could even be the Last Supper – so prepare to feast!
Crudités and bubbles will get the appetite and mood off to a good start – with Cloudy Bay Pelorus, of course.
Seafood sharing platter with potato salad, and Mr Bojangles sourdough with soy butter.
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru if there’s no budget, if not a crisp Albariño or Cloudy Bay TeKoKo would be a good substitute.
Grass fed, dry-aged (30-40 days) beef ribeye roasted on the bone over wood, with cafe de Paris butter.
A big red such as the 2015 Labet & Dechelette Chateau de La Tour ‘Hommage a Jean Morin’ Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits – let’s make it a night to remember!
And to finish, Marco Pierre White’s dark chocolate tart – most importantly which has never seen the refrigerator – cooked a few hours before the guests arrive and left to rest. You could put some crème fraîche to help cut the richness of the chocolate, but I like the almost sickly decadence of this intense, deep chocolate hit, so why spoil that?
What would you make for vegetarian or vegan guests?
Black truffle and mushroom linguini – fresh and handmade. Make your own decision about the parmesan cheese – from my suggestions thus far, I think you know what I’d do.
As for vegan, rescoldo vegetables with chimichurri-style herb dressing. The slow cooking of the vegetables buried in ash gives a depth and intensity of flavour which can’t be replicated.
It elevates a humble vegetable into something truly delicious.
Favourite cocktail?
A tough one, I’ve already changed my mind about three times! But it would have to be the classic negroni.
Can you share any favourite dinner party memories?
I’ve been fortunate enough to be a guest at some great dinner parties, as well as being the chef at some other very good, inclusive dinner parties. But ultimately, what happens at the dinner party, stays at the dinner party!
Choose something you’re confident in and know how to execute, you’ll enjoy the evening way more, with less pressure.
Since moving to New Zealand, we try and throw a summer dinner party each year with close friends.
Simon Levy
Multi-award-winning Simon Levy has been head chef at top London restaurants such as Gordon Ramsay’s the Warrington, Claridge’s, and The Ivy, and now runs Hali Bar & Bistro and Inati in Christchurch. He tells Verve it’s not just a relaxed atmosphere with good food, good wine and great company, that’s required for a good time, but “maybe some neighbours that don’t mind a late night and a little noise!”
And who’d be on the dream guest list?
Pierre Koffmann would be top of the list. Working with him has had a massive influence on my life, he’s a great character to be around and I always remember his energy and presence in the kitchen. I’m a big Tottenham Hotspur fan and have fond memories of watching Paul Gascoigne as a child, he was just an amazing. I vividly remember his winning free kick in the FA Cup semi-final against Arsenal, and of course that incredible Euro ’96 goal for England against Scotland followed by the iconic dentist chair celebration.
I’d also ask Freddie Mercury as my dad’s all-time favourite band was Queen, so I grew up listening to them around the house. Robin Williams – as a dinner party without laughter is no fun at all, and finally, Margaret Thatcher. She was such an influential figure growing up, and I’d love to see how she interacted with the rest of that table!
What would be on the menu?
Seared scallops with dill pickled cucumber, dashi and creme fraiche – served this at Hali, it’s a really yummy dish.
Pickled pork jowl served with its cooking juices is one of my favourite things to eat, with a cheeky side of pork crackling.
Beef wellington, pomme puree, truffle, and madeira sauce.
As for dessert, I don’t have the biggest sweet tooth, but I do enjoy taking inspiration from my childhood and adding a savoury twist. So, I’d opt for a nectarine, tamarillo and bacon mallowpuff (we call them teacakes in the UK).
And for vegan or vegetarian guests?
At Inati we take pride in our earth section where we love to hero vegetables – and often find this is what guests leave talking about most! Highlights include the donkey carrot (an Inati classic), slow cooked oyster mushrooms in caramelized whey mushroom ketchup and cultured cream, or our creamed sweetcorn, black garlic, parmesan and polenta.
Favourite cocktail?
Over the last two years, I’ve had the pleasure of working with Joe Bruce who has taught me so much about mixing drinks and how we can incorporate food, with a focus on textures and layers. We should put the same passion into our drinks. I’d choose the Canterbury sour, a rich, warm take on the whiskey sour, using bourbon, cinnamon and syrah cognac; and the
Waikawaka which uses olive oil washed gin, kawaka and soda – a very clever, clean and elegant drink.
Any favourite dinner party memories?
Since moving to New Zealand, we try and throw a summer dinner party each year with close friends. They start off with the best of intentions but… I’m not sure I can share the usual outcome, so we’ll leave it there!
