“I always loved food, a lot,” beams multi-award-winning, London-based Kiwi chef and restauranteur, Chantelle Nicholson. “I think I got into cooking pretty young for a few reasons. I had an aunt in Central Otago that was an amazing cook and baker, and then had another aunt who spent some time travelling and living in America, so had very different influences from her. I loved all treats, but my mum was a public health nurse, so we didn’t generally have a huge amount of them in the house. So, if I wanted sweet treats, I had to bake them!”
Culinary awards aside, Chantelle, who owns a pair of London’s most prestigious sustainable eateries – Tredwells in Covent Garden and All’s Well in Hackney – also featured in CODE Hospitality’s ‘UK’s 100 Most Influential Women in 2019 and 2020. A meteoric rise that began back in 2004 when she quit a career in law to enter the Gordon Ramsey Scholarship competition where she made the final and was offered a job by judge Josh Emett, then head chef of The Savoy Grill by Marcus Wareing. Both Emett and Wareing saw some serious potential, serving as mentors for the Kiwi cook as she worked her way up through some of the UK capital’s most exclusive kitchens.
“I recall walking into the walk-in fridge at the Savoy Grill and taking a moment, thinking ‘Am I actually here?!’ I never questioned the decision itself, as it just felt right, that gut feeling, but I sometimes questioned the long hours and lack of social life! Josh was hugely important – the way he ran the kitchen meant I had a really great start. I think if I had been in a different kitchen that was more aggressive and egotistical, then I may have thrown the towel in.”
Chantelle even had an advisory role for the 2004 film, Burnt, starring Bradley Cooper.
“It was quite an involved role to be honest, from flagging anything that didn’t quite fit in the script, to teaching Bradley Cooper how to cook a piece of seabass! I spent a number of days on set, which was quite eye-opening.”
How scary was it to quit law for the kitchen all those years ago – are you a risk-taker by nature and is this reflected in your approach to cooking?
“I think I was naively unaware – thankfully upon reflection! I thought I could always go back to law, so it didn’t feel as if it was a finite decision. In terms of being a risk-taker, I would say I take calculated risks. Running a kitchen can’t really involve risks, so service is de-risked as much as possible in terms of the dishes, but my approach to creating dishes is more of the moment, embracing seasonality, but also time and place.”
Does your legal background help with the business side of the industry?
“I think all life experiences assist in running a business, but yes, when there are contracts to be read and so on, then a general understanding has definitely helped. I also did a commerce degree alongside law, so that also gave me a base that has been useful.”
You’re known for using sustainable and ethical products – are these becoming easier to source?
“Yes, and no. I think the more you become aware of the need for certain things, it can be harder to just accept the norm. It’s just common sense for us to be working towards a more circular economy but unfortunately, we have got so far down the line into a linear economy with single use items that it is going to take quite some time to make the needed changes.”
The chef recalls the joy and excitement she experienced growing up, with each seasonal change: “The first of the asparagus, the sweetcorn, and the strawberries! My family in Central Otago had a stone fruit orchard, so I was always spoilt with the best of the best fruit.”
Her first solo cookbook, the well-received Planted, focuses on plant-based recipes, some of which appear on her restaurants’ menus (she’s also co-authored five of Marcus Wareing’s culinary tomes). Chantelle, however, isn’t vegan – I ask how much of a professional decision this is and if it would be possible to create meat dishes from experience.
“I use the term plant-based rather than vegan. To me, veganism encapsulates a lifestyle whereas plant-based refers to what effectively is on the plate. I adore vegetables, so it is not an onerous task for me to work with them more. I think your palate and cooking ability is also something that is inherent after a certain amount of experience, so you don’t necessarily need to test out each dish to know that it will work.”
Pre-Covid, how often did you come back to Aotearoa – it must be fascinating to see how the food scene here has evolved?
“I was last there in 2018 and used to come back every two or three years. It has been great to be able to see it morph and change in the time since I lived there, and to see everyone embracing the uniqueness of the Kiwi attitude and produce.”
The pandemic has seriously affected the industry – has it altered your approach in any way?
“It has brought about many, many changes. Too many to even begin to list. I think it has changed my thought process and also my priorities. It also made me question a lot of things and why they were the way they were, for the better.”
Chantelle’s fervent belief in caring for the planet is complemented by desire to care for others and share the joys of cooking. She’s worked with charities such as StreetSmart, Action Against Hunger, and Carbon-Free Dining.
“I think that being able to lend a hand and support those who need it is important. I am aware of my privilege and therefore feel I need to give back to those who have not had that luxury. Food is also a great conduit for many things – bringing people together, education, nourishment – so lends itself, in all its facets, to being a powerful contribution.”
Kids’ cooking classes have proved popular, too. “I think it is so important for children to learn about food,” she says, “especially where it comes from and how it gets onto their plate. There is so much food insecurity in the world and we all need to work hard where we can to try and get this into a better place. I think the youth are key to the future, to be able to bring about change.”
To find out more about Chantelle, and order her book, visit chantellenicholson.com
