El Día de la Matanza is the day that the lovely pigs pass on to a better life, providing food for the family for the whole year.
In Spain we say, “Del cerdo se come hasta los andares” – “From the pig, we eat even the walking!” (I’m not sure quite how you are supposed to eat the ‘walking’ of the pig, but the idea is that it’s all about using every part of the animal.) This recipe is always on the menu on el Día de la Matanza, and it was one of my dad’s favourites.
The way my mum makes it is quite simple: she just slow-cooks the ribs until really tender, and then she adds the potatoes – she doesn’t include the crumbs. Both ways are delicious, but I think the crumb adds an extra something special.
Ingredients
- 1.5–2kg baby back ribs
- 1 teaspoon pimentón de la Vera
- 4 garlic cloves, bashed
- 4 tablespoons olive oil
- 1½ teaspoons cumin seeds, lightly crushed
- 150ml (2/3 cup) white wine
- 1 large onion, finely sliced
- 2 bay leaves
- 500ml (2 cups) fresh chicken stock
- 300g new potatoes
Fried herby crumbs
- 4 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 garlic clove, finely grated
- 75g fresh white breadcrumbs
- finely grated zest of 1 lemon
- 6 sage leaves, shredded
Serves: 4
Time: 2 hours, plus 3 hours or overnight marinating
Method
Arrange the ribs in a large dish. Add the pimentón, 2 of the grated garlic cloves, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, 1 teaspoon of the crushed cumin seeds and 50ml (3 tablespoons) of the white wine and combine to coat the ribs. Leave to marinate for at least 3 hours, or overnight if you can, in the fridge. Preheat the oven to 170°C/150°C fan/gas 3½.
Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a deep casserole dish (Dutch oven) over a high heat. Remove the ribs from the marinade, then cook for 4–5 minutes on each side until browned all over. Set the ribs aside on a plate and add the onion to the pan. Cook for 10 minutes until brown, then add the remaining garlic cloves and cumin seeds. Stir to combine, then return the ribs to the pan.
Pour in the remaining white wine and bubble for a minute, then add the bay leaves and stock, along with the leftover marinade. Season well and bring to the boil, then cover and transfer to the oven to cook for 1–1½ hours, until the meat has softened and is beginning to pull away from the bone.
Crack the new potatoes in half with the tip of a knife (this helps them release the starch) then add to the casserole dish and cook for a further 30–40 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender and starting to break apart and thicken the sauce. Meanwhile, prepare the herby crumbs. Heat the oil in a frying pan (skillet) over a medium high heat and fry the garlic for 10 seconds, then add the breadcrumbs, lemon zest and sage.
Remove the lid from the casserole dish and sprinkle this crumb all over the top, then cook uncovered for a further 20 minutes and serve in shallow bowls with lots of the lovely sauce from the dish.
The Spanish Home Kitchen
by José Pizarro, RRP$60.00,
Hardie Grant Books