I’m a sucker for quirky Italian hillside villages that look like they’re tumbling into the ocean.
Add in cafes, bars and boutiques tucked away in steep alleyways with bright bursts of bougainvillea on every corner, and I’m totally sold.
Positano sits on the Amalfi Coast, neatly between Sorrento and Amalfi. Notwithstanding a dark period of pirate raids, Saracen sacking and Pisa pillaging, the continuous sunshine and wonderful scenery has attracted artists and poets along with the rich and famous since Roman times. And now it was my turn.
You take your life in your hands to drive the wicked twists and turns along the snaking cliffside road all along the coast, but it’s worth it. Incomparable views across the Tyrrhenian Sea, glimpses of sparkling coves and beaches, tiny villages and craggy hills are just reward for the inevitable heart-stopping moments in oncoming traffic.
On a scorching afternoon with the pavement practically shimmering in the heat, I headed towards the brightest point of reference I could find, the tiled dome of the Church of Santa Maria Assunta. The dark interior was almost as good as a cool shower so I took my time wandering past the arches and chapels up to the statue of Madonna and Child, my gaze drawn upwards into the dome that attracted me at first, with light filtering through onto the high altar.
The food of the region seems focussed on light flavours, zinging with lemon. Seafood is plentiful of course and the produce flavoursome and delicious.
I am huge fan of Caprese, a simple salad of ripe tomatoes, fresh basil and fat, glossy mozzarella and its fried cousin, the panzerotti, but I would be lying if I said I did not gorge myself on flaky cornetti, garlic laden clams, delicious risotto, and fresh pasta, generally followed by a crisp, chilled limoncello. Surely all part of the ultra-healthy Mediterranean diet?
A little conscious of the amount of food I was consuming, I decided on taking one of the hiking trails (or in my case, ambling trails). I elected to tackle the most famous of them all, the Path of the Gods, or Sentiero Degli Dei. An early morning ferry ride took me to Amalfi and, fortified with coffee, I jumped on a bus to Bomerano where the trail begins. This 8km walk along the edge of the Lattari mountains follows ancient mule paths and boasts unforgettable views across the Sorrentine Peninsula to Capri. I was able to ignore my heaving lungs as the constantly changing scenery from terraced orchards through to forests, hillsides and cliff faces all offered complete ‘wow’ moments. Thankfully I could legitimately stop (frequently) for photos. It is a relatively simple trail despite its challenges, so when I reached the village of Nocelle at the end of the trail, I forwent the offer of a bus back to Positano and chose the 1,500-step descent into Positano. My knees decided that was a very poor decision and let me know about it for a couple of days.
With further trails to explore, beaches to relax on, excursions to Capri and beyond, and more, I will know next time to allow much, much more time. I’m a sucker for Positano and would return tomorrow in a heartbeat.
Words — Kate Couling
World Journeys
