Though there are no official statistics on how many Kiwis are living in New York, the consulate estimates the figure to be around 2,000.
For the past couple of years, they’ve been serviced by direct flights from Auckland courtesy of Air New Zealand.
Verve sat down with 787 First Officer James Murdoch, and Inflight Service Manager Mary-Jo van Hoppe to learn about what they most love about the Big Apple.
What were you first impressions of NYC and how has that evolved?
James: I visited twice before working at Air New Zealand and about seven times since. Like all people, I think my first impressions of the city were an overwhelming sense of its size and how busy it is. Getting anywhere seemed like it took a lot of planning and time, but as you get used to the city, you learn to get around and find efficiencies in the system. It’s still a massive, amazing city, but I have grown in confidence in how to navigate it.
It takes some time, experience, and a number of mistakes to learn the difference between local and express trains, which ones stop where, and how to best utilise their public transport infrastructure.
There is also the ‘secret’ of knowing about 6½ Avenue, which we are lucky enough to have our hotel located close to. This little gem keeps you efficiently moving up and down the mid-city streets without the chaos of the big hustle-and-bustle avenues.
Mary-Jo: I cannot recall how many times I’ve now visited NYC, but however many it is, it will never be enough! I’ll never forget my first impression of driving in on our crew bus at Christmas. There was an unusual silence from the crew as we gazed out at the scene unfolding, in awe. We were in New York. It wasn’t a soft, gradual welcome but a BOOM we are here, and in that moment, fully immersed. You could literally feel the pulse. The city was lit up like a Christmas tree, like a movie set. It was bright. It was noisy. It hummed. At first, I felt quite overwhelmed, but after a few more visits, I began to discover a closer connection to this vibrancy, to this city that is always alive.
Do you find that New Yorkers are curious about Kiwis?
James: To find ‘New Yorkers,’ I have found you need to venture away from the midtown and downtown areas. When you get towards the Upper East/West Side established residential areas, you find more locals. Most seem really kind and welcoming and love the way New Zealanders converse in a polite manner.
Mary-Jo: Although New Yorkers are somewhat curious about Kiwis, it’s easy to get overshadowed by their unapologetic expression of who they are. I love the way they speak with their whole body. New York is an animated expression, and so are the people. It’s easy to get caught up in that and absorb the magic. It’s unavoidable. From ordering a coffee to watching a show, to walking down Fifth Avenue and strolling through Central Park, the place is alive and is people-watching heaven.
What are some of your most memorable moments, and favourite lesser-known spots?
James: My Most memorable NYC experience so far would have to be waking up in NY with my family on Christmas day and going ice skating in Central Park, a bucket list item to do with your kids.
Otherwise, I’d recommend visiting the Upper East Side, Second and Third Avenue, between 75th-85th streets. The restaurants and bars are amazing. They still have that vibrant NYC feel but are more welcoming and have a local vibe about them.
New York also does big events well. I have been lucky enough to be in New York for New Year’s Eve, St. Patrick’s Day, the US Open, and went to a Billy Joel concert at Madison Square Garden. The Billy Joel concert was definitely one of the most memorable! The music combined with the venue gives you one of those feelings you can only experience in NYC.
Mary-Jo: One of my most memorable experiences was taking a walk into Central Park on a crisp autumn day, and stumbling across an incredible five-piece jazz band. These musicians were amazing. Feeling pretty stoked about my life and my job, I sat with eyes closed on a park bench, fully absorbing it, loving this discovery. However, walking further into the park, I was drawn in by beautiful singing voices – there were four men singing a cappella. At the same time, a photo shoot of traditional Chinese costumes was taking place, further along, someone was playing the violin, a film crew, a hip-hop dance troupe, a ballerina dancing solo in full costume, a model shoot. Is this even real?! It most certainly was. Just another day in NYC, but for this Kiwi, it was as though I’d stepped onto a Spielberg film set. New York magic at your fingertips.
How does flying to New York differ from other international destinations?
James: The obvious big difference is how far away it is: an 18-hour flight over a significant number of time zones. Your local ocean is the Atlantic and not the Pacific. In New Zealand, we identify so much with the Pacific and its people that you really feel like you are in a different part of the world.
Mary-Jo: I notice there is a certain buzz upon the aircraft which differs from our other flights when we are bound for New York. It’s as if everyone knows they are going somewhere extra special, including the crew. It’s our longest flight with some trepidation at the beginning that soon disappears. The time goes surprisingly quickly, overshadowed by the excitement of arrival.
What’s the most ‘New York’ thing you’ve done
James: I’ve been lucky enough to be in New York during the ‘Manhattanhenge’. This is an amazing phenomenon where the setting sun aligns perfectly on the east and west oriented streets. It only happens twice a year for 2-3 days and brings everyone, even the locals, to a standstill to take photos in the middle of the roads right at sunset. It is super unique to New York and quite a novelty to experience.
Mary-Jo: The most New York thing I have done… a martini at the Plaza. Solo.
How would you compare the coffee culture in New York to that in New Zealand?
James: I think like most of America, the coffee culture is still developing. Bottomless mugs of filter coffee at every diner have always been a staple of the typical American morning. However, with a Starbucks now on every corner the American culture has certainly moved away from the ‘diner experience’ into wanting overly large, sweet, sugary treats Starbucks has to offer. But with a little bit of research and a bit of a dedicated walk, you can find the hidden cafe gems, like Little Collins, that are educating the locals and providing for the Antipodeans to get our real morning fix.
Mary-Jo: That cup of Joe is no comparison to our discerning coffee culture. Hands down we ace it!
If you could bring one thing from New Zealand to New York, what would it be? And vice versa?
James: The Northland beaches, and the Southern Alps. As for bringing something from NYC to New Zealand, the obvious answer would be its infrastructure and transport system. But more idealistically, it would be amazing to have the diversity of events. In New York, you can go to your local bar or restaurant and have world-class entertainment playing on the piano and singing you songs while you drink or eat, or you can go along to any major event – music, sports, or culture.
Mary-Jo: I always travel with my NZ-designed Go pillow by Hyoumankind. It gives me the best sleep ever, wherever – a good hack for jet lag! If I could bring something home from New York, it would be a bit of the ‘pizazz’… the sophistication, the music, the theatre, the speakeasy bars, the gilded glamour of gone. Plant a little of that zing into our city culture. New York, I’ll be back.
Flying High
Some more tourist tips from pilot James!
- From Staten Island, return to Midtown via the SG Line Ferry from St George Ferry Pier to Midtown. For just US$4 you get some of the best open-air views of the Statue of Liberty on the way past, and amazing views of the Downtown and Midtown Skyline as you head up the Hudson River.
- For the best views of both the Empire State Building and the Chrysler Building, go up the SUMMIT One Vanderbilt above Grand Central Station. This is one of the highest buildings in Manhattan and has some really fun experiences once you’re up at the top. Personally, I would do this over any other skyscraper experience.
- There is an amazing Mexican restaurant called Rosa Mexicano at Union Square.
- Bar 9 Midtown or Brandy’s Piano Bar Upper East Side on 84th Street offer some of the best live piano you can get anywhere in the world.
- Bathtub Gin W19th in Chelsea is a fun speakeasy with great cocktails. You’ll need to book ahead, though.
- The latest must-see blockbuster musical is Hamilton – The Musical. It tells the story of the foundations of America in hip-hop format.